Ice Cold Coke

Mar 31 2009 – It’s 7pm and I’m sitting, sipping a ice cold Coca-Cola with ice. I think this is my second ‘iced’ drink in over 5 months. The first was at a hotel in Mombasa – a mixed drink. I really don’t feel like I’m in rural Kenya right now. Especially since I’m still feeling bloated from the 3 course meal I had for lunch at a local 5 star resort. Three courses may not sound like much, but the main course had 5 or 6 items to it. Yes, 5 stars. That’s a little relative to other resorts, but I didn’t even believe it when I first heard such a place existed near Mbita. It is actually on the back side of Rusinga Island, about 10 KM away. Steve and Judi’s got invited by an acquaintance who helps manage the place and asked if we could come along. The place is pretty marvelous. It’s definitely a couple steps above the Safari Village we stayed at one night. While it has been neglected a bit over the last 4 years, they are trying to get it back up to prime condition and are doing a good job of it. It sits right on the shore of Lake Victoria, has a large grassy area that is actually green. It has 8 nice sized cabana like structures with a max occupancy of about 30.

We ate lunch outside on the lawn at a table that was elegantly preset for the 5 of us. After our lemonade and cookies that we had after we first arrived, we moved over to the table for lunch. The table was set with real plates, and I had 5 or 6 pieces of silverware just for myself. There was a separate bread plate, clothe napkins, and water and wine goblets made of blown glass. Also set on the table were the oil and vinegar flasks for the salad, a craft of this pepper, garlic, and other spices soaking in sherry used to spice up your soup if you wanted, salt and butter.

We started with bread that was spicy and had sun dried tomatoes in it. I’m sure there is a proper name for it, but that’s beyond my sophistication. Then came the cucumber soup. I did try the sherry concoction with it and it did add zip to it. This was followed by the main course of rice, cooked in some oil that turned it yellow, and had peas and almonds in it, a fish stew that had tender fish, veggies and lots of other wonderful stuff in it along with the tasty sauce, a Greek salad, a salad of chick peas with a coconut accent, a beets and oranges vegetable dish, a green salad and a personal size quiche. I guess that is 7 items. The last 2 items I had to put on my bread plate as my main plate not longer had room. Joyce and I enjoyed the white wine while Steve and Judi had the red. For you wine connoisseurs I have no idea what either of them were.

Fortunately I passed on the seconds because dessert was a banana cream pie in a delicious graham cracker crust with a caramelized top. What sweetness. Topped this all off with a cup of what appears to be real coffee, not the instant stuff that most places serve. This was a meal that rivals anything I’ve had back in the US. Not planning on having dinner tonight.

We heard that a lot of people just fly in to this place, using the private airstrip they have. But tourism is down, even over last year after the violence. So they are try to attract more locals. There are a couple other high class resorts like this around we hear, some still operating, some not, and one that might be bull dozed for a road around the island it is on. These places must be hobbies for the owners as I can’t imagine that they make enough money to actually support them selves, even at the $300+ a night room rates.

Joyce is currently reading some of my blogs. Usually nobody in the family reads my blogs, so I can say anything I want and they don’t know what I’ve said or commented about them. However, some of you out there are sending back e-mails about items that raised Joyce’s curiosity and she needed to see what I said about her. Thanks Susy and Ruthie.

A few people have mentioned that we look thin in some of the pictures and need some fattening up. We are open to any invites and have received a couple already which we will accept and look forward to. Thanks MM, does Tuesday night work for you? I also plan on fishing for some invites from others whom I know cook up wicked good meals. I also figure it will be a good way to catch up with friends and family once we are back.

We are still waiting for the rainy season to set in. I thought it was coming a couple of times, but the rains stopped after a couple of days. The locals are needing the rain as they are waiting to plant crops and don’t do it until the rains start for sure. They want to make sure that the plants don’t sprout and then wither away from lack of moisture. The rains are already half a month late in coming. The area is already in draught conditions and another rainy season with little rain will put a lot of strain on the food sources locally. Many areas are already claiming a big lack of food and serious starvation conditions. It’s mind boggling to me how an area on the second largest fresh water lake in the world does not have enough water to grow crops.

News Flash …… Prime Minister Raila Odinga is a new man. His old self was washed away when he saw the light, repented and accepted Jesus Christ as his Lord and saviour. Raila promised to lead the nation back to God.

This would be fantastic if it turns out to be true but some people are skeptical. Raila is a politician and some see this as molding oneself to gain the most acceptance. This country really does need some God fearing leaders to straighten it out and get people that work for the good of all the people not just themselves.

And from the international news desk …. Gambian authorities, including police, soldiers and intelligence agents have taken about 1000 alleged witches in a campaign that is terrorizing the tiny West African nation. Authorities are inviting ‘witch doctors’ from Guinea who combat witches.

This is a big reality in parts of the culture hear.

Time to kick back and put in one of those Friends dvds.

Fat and happy in Mbita,

Paul

ICIPE and Kisumu

Mar 29^th, 2009 – We are under a month away from being home and can hardly believe it. Time seems to be speeding up and while 2 months ago we’d thought it would be forever until our time to deport, it now seems like it is screaming up on us. I think we will all be leaving on a high note with our last experiences.

Joyce and I got back a few hours ago from our trip to Kisumu to visit Morgan and see how she is doing. Kisumu is on the north east corner of the pan-handle of Lake Victoria that extends into Kenya. It is the 4^th largest city in the country at about 280,000 residents. But it seems huge to us with many modern conveniences that we don’t have access to here in Mbita. There are grocery stores that sell cheese and take more than 2 minutes to walk through. A lot of the roads are paved. Buildings are more than 3 stories tall. You can get a latte while you surf the net. And not only do they have movie theaters, but the one we went to actually had air conditioning, at least to the second movie we went to. That’s right, 2 movies in two days. We, Joyce, Morgan and I, first went to see Will Smith in Seven Pounds but ended up seeing Adam Sandler’s Bedtime Stories as the poster advertising what was showing hadn’t been updated yet. Entertaining if you haven’t seen a movie in a long time. The next day the 3 of us were joined by Dick and Sandy, whom we were staying with, and saw Steve Martin’s Pink Panther 2. Steve was funny and the air conditioner was actually working so this one rated a thumbs up. Movies are one thing that we are missing and plan on going to a few when we return.

There are also a lot of Mazungus in Kisumu and it doesn’t feel like the Mbita Kenya we have grown use to. Parts of life are so US normal and I find myself falling back into old habits very easily and living US style. Such as having ice cream and putting it away in a freezer. But of course they is a lot of Kenya in Kisumu – run down houses, hawking selling wares off their blankets on the sidewalks, matatus and bota botas everyplace. And people asking the white people for handouts. At this point I prefer the simplicity of Mbita. But that is changing for us too.

Before I get to that, an update on Morgan. She is liking Kisumu a lot and the girls she are helping out and living with. The schedule doesn’t seem to hectic, but keeps her busy. She is getting around Kisumu like a pro and likes the conveniences that the bigger city provides.

And Nick is finding things to do in Nairobi. Just reported to us that he is playing basketball in the Kibira slums and things are picking up for the upcoming fund raiser. Derek, a volunteer at Christ’s Gift Academy is going to visit him on his way through Nairobi.

Back to Mbita – As Joyce puts it we are moving up the food chain. We started in housing on the Catholic Parish compound – It had intermittent power, no running water, a jiko for cooking and an outhouse. But still it was better than a large portion of the local population. This definitely gave us a taste of how locals live more so than our other housing arrangements and a taste of how much starch there is on the diet here. It also lead to getting to know the community itself better since we had to travel out into it on a frequent basis to pick up food and phone cards. This was our longest housing stop, being our home from mid November to mid February. This gave us a great appreciation for our luxury and abundance back home. Our next stay in Mbita was Steve and Judi’s home. They are the ones we are working with at Christ’s Gift Academy. They have a nice 4 bedroom home with a living/dining room area, a kitchen, a veranda, an inside toilet and showering area. While they only have solar power, they do have occasional running water and a rain water collection system. They live a much more westernized life style that particularly shows up in their eating habits with a nice variety of food. This is helped by the fact they have a gas oven/stove. However they have no refrigerator, but do use space in the freezers of friends. Our last 2 weeks in Mbita will have us living in a flat at ICIPE. We are staying with Joe at his 2 bedroom apartment in probably the best accommodations available in Mbita. ICIPE, being a major research facility has development much of their own infrastructure. They have treated water, which we still boil, generator backed-up power, and communication with the outside world via internet. While there is not a phone system that goes beyond the facilities fence line, we do have access to a refrigerator, hot water, running water, a bathtub with shower, one that actually projects water in streams, a flushing toilet and internet in the apartment. Joe also has satellite TV, a DVD player and a color TV. I find myself quickly succumbing to these luxury and have already given in to watching episodes of Friends of which we have access to 5 seasons of DVDs. I planned on not giving in to watching TV just because I could, but quickly gave in as soon as the devil woman Joyce enticed me with episodes of Friends. So I plan on pointing fingers at her and blaming her for my downfall. After all, who could resist such temptation which was being forced upon me?

Well I need to go – upload this blog on the convenient and relatively fast internet and take my hot shower before climbing into a comfortable bed which I have the option of having a fan blow on me all night.

Living the good life in Mbita,

Paul

Time Running Short

Note: Oops – the last blog on rabies should have been dated March 19 not Feb.

Mar 21st, 2009 – Yesterday was 5 weeks from when we will be putting our feet back onto US soil. I’m sure that time will fly by. Even now I’m thinking that is not enough time to send get all the little things we have procrastinating to do done – but that’s only because I know I’ll procrastinate some more and probably not end up doing most of them anyway. Good intentions and 100 shillings will get you an espresso at the café in Kisumu.

Joyce and I are slowly working on preparing for our exit. We are trying to get in a few more visits with our kids of Mbita. This is limited to Saturdays as the kids are in school and we are helping at school. Sunday is a personal time day at Steve and Judi’s so we try not to visit the kids on that day. It seems if we say we will be paying a visit, they will come and find us if we are not there soon enough. Had 3 greet us this morning here just as we were deciding whether to go then or wait a little while longer. We left then. We walked back down to mazugu beach by the parish. Joyce and I took a bit of a stealth route to the dock so as not to attract the attention of other kids. We sent one of the ones that met us on the road (3 more joined us on the way as they were also coming to find out why we were so late) to round up the other kids and bring them down.

After an hour or so of swimming we sent the kids on home so Joyce and I could go organize all the belongings that we left at the parish when we went to Tanzania without a curious audience. I’ve been living on the clothes that I packed into one medium size duffle bag over 5 weeks ago. The only thing I’ve picked up at the parish was my laptop and another tee-shirt. And I still have more clothes than probably 75% of residence of Mbita.

We sorted items into categories of coming home with us, go to Kisumu for the nursery school or orphanage, for the local pre-school, items Steve and Judi might be able to use and items for the Polytechnic. I had been afraid of how much we’d have to tote back home with us knowing we had 2 Action Packer bins, 4 suitcases, and full laundry bag and some misc stuff waiting for us to determine what to do with. I think of that the 2 bins and the largest suitcase are going to be all we’ll need to carry our possessions home. This includes the souvenirs we have collected. I should say others have collected since I have accumulated very few because I did not want to have to deal with getting them back home. Also Ash and Trav took almost all of the ones we accumulated during the Mombasa / Tanzania safari (in this context just meaning a trip, not a wild animal seeing trip).

We had told the kids once we were done with our work we’d stop by to see them again before we went back to our house. I guess we took to long again as only a couple were around and 7 of them greeted us back at the Cochran’s (that’s Steve and Judi). They had been there for about 45 minutes already. We let them stay a little longer than sent them on their way home.

For the curious here is what we are all currently up to.

Ashley and Travis are actually back in the states. They landed Friday and were being pampered by Aunt Suzie and Uncle Doug. Ashley was looking forward to using a blow drier for the first time in 3 ½ months and being able to drink Northwest beer soon. Soon because after taking the de-worming medicine you are suppose to wait 3 days before having alcohol or dairy products. Not sure if they’ve taken the bilharzias (sp??) med yet to kill the fun loving little parasite we probably all picked up swimming in Lake Victoria. I’m trying to decide when I’m going to take my doses (we all got the meds as a precaution because they are so friken cheap here.) so as not to have to wait to long to have some good ice cream on my return home. The biggest obstacle is that you are supposed to wait 21 days after last contact for the bilharzias meds. Anyway I’m off topic. Ash and Trav are anxious to see their dog Kevin who should be showing up today along with Travis’ parents. They have already seen Mormor and hope to have a chance to see my parents also. I believe they fly out Sunday to go back to Colorado and start work on Monday. Silly kids.

Morgan is in Kisumu working with Elizabeth and hanging out with her and Kelsey. She is doing whatever Elizabeth needs her to do in her work with the Kiwanis’ preschool and an orphanage she is working at. Oww the chameleon that lives in Steve and Judi’s veranda (a snooty name for their enclosed patio) is walking around on the window screens --- news flash this aside is interrupted to go help Joyce off the floor, she just passed out. That’s what lack of water and not enough food will do for you here in the heat of Africa. She says she is fine, she thinks it was a soft landing on the concrete floor. She called me after she had come to. She thinks she even had some of those twitching things you get as you come around. She said the floor was actually nice and cool. She went to sit on the couch and I got you some water and apple wedges and peanut butter. She looks to be fine --- like they do with their I’m Cool walk and funny 3 toed feet. Okay back to Morgan. We’ve talked with her a couple times and she seems to be really enjoying her time there and being around the people she is working with. She’s currently staying with Kelsey and her boyfriend.

Nick is in Nairobi living at a hostel in a 4 x 6 tent he bought. He’s about a 20 minute walk from the middle of downtown. His a few irons in the fire. Helping a local with a fundraising event that is coming up later this month. He met a girl at the hostel that is working on a project in the Kibira slums. She’s going to be teaching the kids basketball and then they will have a fund raising basketball game. She is also making a documentary of it. His friend Sally happens to be in Nairobi now for a job at a deaf school. SO he seems to be happy about being there.

Joyce and I are in Mbita, out home away from home. We are working at Christ Gift Academy pre-school and primary school. Joyce is helping with the lower grades – the pre-school age up to the grade 2s. She is doing crafts, tutoring math, leading songs and many other fun activities. She is really eating it up and loving to have something to do every day and a schedule to do it by, even though the schedule is quite dynamic. I’m working in the back office getting in some good computing time. Trying to simplify a few of their Excel lists and make them a little more friendly to us. Even getting to do some accounting work and got a wireless network set up for them last week. I even took a step out of my comfort zone and taught the grade 5 kids their CRE (Christian Religion Education). Went well and they even responded to my questions. They are into the sports (soccer, volleyball and netball) playoffs moving up from locals to provincial to nationals. Rather than the winning team moving on (which is hard to determine with the funky, inconsistent bracketing they use) they pick the best players for all the teams and make all-star teams at each level to move on. I think CGA only has one student left still playing on the boy’s soccer team and the district level coming up this week.

Well the pizza is in the oven – yeah really, Judi is definitely spoiling us with food – and I going to try and get a shower before sitting down.

Reporting from Mbita,
Paul

The “Partners in Kenya” Come Together Again

Paul's Note: Joyce has not finished this yet, but I've decided not to wait any longer to post it. It does end abruptly.

Feb 7th & 8th, 2009

Early Saturday morning we were up before the sun to catch the 7:00 ferry for a 45 minute ride to Luanda. It was finally (!) time to visit our Partners In Kenya sponsored kids. We met our friend George, who helps Wash Jo in Kenya, and he escorted us across Lake Victoria to meet the Makasembo school bus (!) that gave us a lift to Nyakongo Girls Secondary School. It was quite exciting to ride in the bus that was recently purchased due to big fundraising efforts by the Makasembo community. Daniel, Makasembo’s Principal, came along for the ride to make sure we arrived safely. It was so great to see Daniel again. He greeted us warmly and made us feel welcomed, as he did in 2005 and 2007.

We were taken to Nyakongo first and met the new Principal, Millicent Omondi. She came to the school last year and she has been instrumental in making many good changes around the school. The school buildings were freshly painted, the grounds neat and tidy and the enrollment was up to 280 (expected) from 180 the last time we visited. In Kenya, schools are pretty “big” on having their school motto painted on the side of their buildings or at the school entrance. And there it was! Big as life…just as we arrived to the first building we saw that there was a freshly painted school motto and mission statement. It looked so nice. They had also just planted new bushes and set painted rocks around for boarders. It had never looked better. Even the fields that stood with old maize plants were cut down and looked nice. Apparently, the school board was not happy with the last principal, but they are now so pleased to have a new and capable woman to continue on. She is taking on many challenges and the school is thriving and growing! Personally, I did not connect with her as much as with Grace, but apparently Grace was not cooperative with anyone, including Wash Jo.

After greeting our favorite teacher, Leonard (also there in 2005 & 2007) we chatted a bit and then had a tour of the school grounds and briefly greeted the girls who were sitting in their classrooms doing their personal studies. This was a Saturday! They also have study time on Sunday! Kids in America need to thank their lucky stars that they are spoiled and undisciplined! After having a soda in the teacher’s room we stood before the whole body in their dining hall. Actually, the Form 1 students (the new freshmen) had just started reporting to school so about 90 girls were yet to arrive. The Form 2, 3 & 4 students come 3 weeks earlier. We introduced ourselves to the girls and Paul made a little speech, but then Mrs. Omondi asked us to do a presentation to inspire the girls. We awkwardly looked at each other and said that we were not prepared for that…oops. So, the girls went out of the hall and back to their studies. It was kind of strange because in the past, the girls have prepared some things for us so we were caught off guard. Anyway, our day proceeded with a small meeting between Mrs. Omondi and me. I had several questions about students that I had actually come prepared with (unlike our “presentation” mentioned earlier). She was able to answer all of my questions fully and I felt very satisfied.

Meanwhile, the rest of our “team” went back to the dining hall with our 15 sponsored students. (We did not start any new students this year at Nyakongo because we were unsure about the principal and thought it would be best to only start new students at Makasembo). We actually have 17 sponsored girls, but one was attending her father’s funeral and another girl was sick. The first time we visited, Winnie Juma, the girl that Paul and I sponsored, attended her father’s funeral too…it happens so much here. Morgan wrote some questions on the newly painted blackboard, and the girls sat and very diligently wrote their answers so I can bring them all home to you! The clock on the wall still said 12:55 as it did the last two times we visited. Clocks just love to sit around here not working…you would be amazed if you ever saw a clock that worked. Also, people have calendars hanging on their walls from as many as 6 years ago (and the pictures are not even that great!). After the girls finished their questionnaires, they wrote letters to their sponsors and had their pictures taken. I am keeping them quite safe for our journey home. It was then lunch time but we told the girls that we wanted to meet them again a bit later. When we finished eating we gathered back together and decided that we needed to get the girls loosened up a bit so we played some games with them and had a really good time. We began by sitting around and introduced ourselves. Most of the girls were pretty good at saying something really sweet about how much they appreciate their sponsors and the wonderful opportunity that they are receiving to be in school. So many students cannot afford the school fees, let alone be able to be boarders at school. Nyakongo is trying to “do away” with the day scholars so most of the students do live at the school. Girls are at such a disadvantage if they cannot live at school. That also means that they get three meals a day. We passed out the few letters that we had from their sponsors and they were so happy to receive them. After our games we all sat together and talked to the girls about their individual sponsors. They all wanted to listen to the information we shared about all of you who so generously pay for their fees. When we were finished our time was almost up! We went outside for a group picture and that is when the girls huddled around me just to ask questions. They were so cute and seemed to feel more comfortable talking with us now. Lilian, a Form 4 student (Susy & Doug Williams’ girl) seemed to be their spokesperson. She was very outgoing and always smiling. I checked with them to make sure they all had mosquito nets, were living at school and that they received new uniforms last year. The answer was yes to all questions!!!...and I must say that their uniforms looked very nice. They did ask if they could come to America when they were finished with school and they also asked if they were supposed to be receiving pocket money. Unfortunately, the answer to both questions was no. I am getting pretty good at saying no around here as we are asked for things constantly…even from people who just walk up to us on the street. I try to say it kindly….but it does get annoying. Even as we were waiting for our ferry back to Mbita, a lady just walked up to me and told me that I should by her some new shoes. Sorry, “no”. Sometimes when little kids say “give me money” we say “you give ME money” and that throws them for a loop and they usually go away.

The next day we went on to visit our students at Makasembo Secondary School. Daniel, the Headmaster, greeted us so nicely. Since this was a Sunday, there were not many teachers around. We also did not have to meet the school committee or the chief of the village. We had spent time with them in 2007 and we really just wanted to meet with “our kids”. We were happy to see some progress at the school. In a previously empty classroom we found a new science laboratory. It was a great place for us to meet with the kids. I was meeting with Daniel to go over a few things so Nick, Morgan, Ashley, Travis & Paul started by having the students write letters to their sponsors. I took time to talk to each student to tell them everything about their sponsors (that I could think of). They were really happy to get the few letters that we brought too. Ashley and Paul worked on taking pictures so we can bring them back home to show all of you. We were only missing two students that day (sorry Mom, but Perez was one of the kids that was not there…but I did leave her your letter). We were happy to see two of our previously sponsored students, Charles & Cyril, who had finished form 4 in 2007. Charles was actually working as a tutor at the school with hopes of going on to college later. Cyril was there to repeat form 4 because he wanted to improve his test scores on the National exams. Cyril really wants to be a doctor and going to University is not going to be possible if his test scores are not higher. He averaged a B, but that is not good enough to get financial assistance so he talked to the Headmaster and asked if he could come back to school. We told Daniel that we would be happy to sponsor him for one more year! When we were finished with our business we spent some time talking with the kids and showing them a map of the USA. It was a nice visit

Daniel encouraged us to continue with our sponsorship because

Tacos and Rabies

Feb 19th, 2009 – This one was only going to be labeled Rabies, but at this moment real tacos are being prepared in the kitchen, I mean with ground beef, cheese, avocado, salsa and all. The only thing that looks to be missing is sour cream. I’m very excited. We are going to Joe’s to watch some of the first round of the NCAA tournament and have the tacos. Joe has a pretty swanky place in ICIPE, the local research facility so is set up for TV and making ice cubes. This is a very big occasion. We are getting spoiled in the food department with Judy’s cooking.

Rabies – I got attacked by a ferocious stray dog last Saturday. Well it was more like bitten by an unfriendly canine. Okay, it was a nip by a dog of unknown origin. Only a couple teeth actually punctured the skin, and all flesh is still attached. I thought I knew what dog did it until we passed by later on the way from the town’s medical clinic and there were 2 dogs lying at the point of attach. Since I didn’t actually see the dog as the nip happened, the one I did see afterward could just have been spectating.

This incident happened on my way back from Mbita Town. It already wasn’t a perfect trip. It was the first time I had warn shorts out in “public” while in Mbita. I usually reserved the shorts for after evening showers when we were by ourselves at the parish compound. I wanted to stay with the local custom of all men wear long pants as shorts are for primary school kids. I had a few strange looks from the locals as I pasted by with my pasty pale legs. I think a few snide comments were also exchanged at my expense. I had just run an errand and was at the “junction” where the Sindo road Ts into the Mbita – Homa Bay road. I must have been daydreaming or looking at something else that had caught my interest. All of a sudden, without me even knowing there was a dog in the vicinity, one was drawn to the white meat of my calf and nipped me on the side of my leg. I yelped like a little girl which drew the snickers and laughter of the many motorcycle drivers that wait at the corner for passengers and the ladies manning their kiosks of various types at the busy intersection. I looked down at my leg and saw the blood and still did not register exactly what had happened. I glanced around and finally spotted a dog slowly trotting away looking back over its shoulder at me with a “so what are you going to do about it look” on her face. It was definitely a female, and looked like one of the parish dogs. I didn’t even occur to me to try and catch it so if could be determined if it was rabid or not. But as mentioned, there were others in the area later and since I didn’t even notice a dog until a few seconds after the nip and run, it may have actually been some other dog.

I went on back to Steve and Judy’s not thinking much of it, but once they heard about it they were pretty sure that rabies should be a real consideration and the bite dealt with professionally. They were very persistent in tracking down the doctor at ICIPE to have it looked at and dealt with. This took a while as he was out watching a football (that’s soccer to us Americans) match. We eventually just headed to the local governmental medical clinic. They did not have anti-rabies meds as it was too expensive to keep on hand. So they “cleaned” it with sterile water and recommended going to ICIPE. While at the clinic Nick, the ICIPE doc, called Steve back and said they did have the medication and to come on over. So a few minutes later I was getting my first of 5 injections at 2,000 shillings a pop which is quite expensive here. But then ICIPE is known for charging high end prices. I’ve heard in Homa Bay I could get the whole set of 5 from a pharmacy for under 4,000. Oh well, it makes for a semi-boring story.

Time to head for the games and eat TACOS.
Paul

Live from Arusha II

Mar 3, 2009 - Coming to you live again from Arusha TZ.

Joyce and I are headed back towards Mbita Kenya tomorrow and leaving all the kids behind. I'm looking forward to it. I'm not much one for crowds, especially just hanging out not doing much. And moving in a big group, such as 6 family members, when there are no definite plans is not always easy. No one has an idea about what they want to do, everyone just trying to make sure what is being done is okay with others who do not really care what is going on anyway, checking and re-checking, new thoughts and possibilities come up that might be better, so re-discuss everything. And it doesn't really matter much since we are pretty much just wasting time anyway and all looking for almost anything that will be distracting for at least part of the day.

And then there is the money aspect, being away from a permanent base and being on "holiday" just feels like it burns through money sometimes. And then sorting out who needs how much for what going forward since we will all be apart and separate. And with some to many unknowns it is not known how much will be needed or when or if it will be TZ or KE shillings or US dollars. I seem to be the default person to figure this all out, but just want them to give me some idea on what they think might be happening and expenses that might be needed. Fortunately the rest of the family won't be reading this anytime soon, because I'm sure another over-long for my present frame of mind conversation would ensue to make sure what is going on and the amounts are really okay with me.

Enough of the letting the frustration run out.

As mentioned before, Ashley and Travis are here until they go home later this month, about 2 - 1/2 weeks. They have a few things planned with David the local side of the Safari company of our friends. One item they plan on doing is visiting some land David has. They are thinking that someday it may be great to open a "summer camp" here in TZ for under privileged kids. They also are planning on visiting a couple local camps, not necessarily kids camps, for ideas, etc. They may also get to go to Chagga land, David is of the Chagga tribe, at the base of Kilimanjaro and see some of the culture, such as banana beer - tasty stuff they ferments for only 12 hours, and a walk up to the first huts on Mt Kili.

They were looking for a volunteer project they could do for a couple weeks before they head home. Turns out finding something at the spur of the moment is not so easy, especially arranging for food and lodging, transport etc. Short term projects need to be something that people can pick up on quickly and do without much supervision. otherwise it just doesn't pay to have the volunteers and it takes more effort to get them set up and going then the return. I'm starting to understand the logistics and costs associated with groups going on mission or volunteer trips for 2 to 4 weeks.

Nick has some leads for work in Nairobi and will head out in about a week. We found out that one of his team mates from his Cross Fire Youth Encounter team from last year will be arriving in Arusha this Sat. So he wants to hang out here long enough to see her.

Moran is going to hand out here with Nick and head back when he does. She will be going on to Kisumu to work with a couple friends we have made there. She'll be helping at a Kiwanis supported nursery school, and maybe some other stuff.

It's interesting on walking the streets and having the local hawkers approach you. Today as we were walking up to Shabears place - an Elizabeth contact that gives decent prices for better then average quality and has some more unusually crafts and handiwork - I was approached by one selling jewelry. I noticed some coffee bean bracelets that he had that that were similar to one that a acquaintance we met paid about 5000 TZ shillings for I think. The hawker started at 2000, I countered at 500. He came down quickly to 1000. I then said I was really not interested after all. He was then quickly at 500. I then said 2 for 500. He said 2 for 1000 or 1 for 500. I said not interested at all, I don't want to buy one after all. We were walking this whole time so I never gave him my complete attention. At this point I thought I had brushed him off and lost him going through a narrow point in our route. But he soon caught up and agreed to the 2 for 500 price. I wasn't interested, I didn't buy, but the bargaining game was an entertaining pastime.

Later on I was walking the street around Shabears (I'm sure this is a misspelling but it doesn't really matter) shop and picked up an 'artist' selling batiks that he had made. It's amazing how many artists in Arusha there are, all doing batiks that look so much alike. I asked for the best price, which he gave as 12,000 shillings. I said I had seen others like his already and that was not a good price. He said to make an offer and I said I asked for his best price and 12,000 was to much. He said 'business is talking' which is a favorite line here for the sellers letting you know that negotiating is expected and assumed you knew this. Of course during this time other locals see me talking to a hawker that this makes me fair game for others. So I'm getting asked about what I'm looking for, where I'm going, what safaris I want, etc at the same time as this artist is trying to negotiate a deal with me.

I tell the artist I didn't want to negotiate that's why I asked for the best price. He started doing damage control and saying he just assumed I would talk, since business is talking. I said nope, I didn't want to talk. All of a sudden the price was done to 8,000. I'd really like to know the wholesale cost of some of these things.

Unfortunately while the bartering game is a little fun, entertaining and passes the time it also irritates me, getting me in a sour mood, even though I'm the one that started it and can control it. By they way the only way to get the hawkers to leave you alone is to ignore them completely. No hi, no giving your name, no indication that you even heard them talking to you. Once you acknowledge them at all they will keep talking to you for a long time after you say you are no longer interested, have no money, aren't looking for anything. If you reply they keep talking and trailing you.

Even pricing at more upscale establishments such as restaurants with prices on the menu, you have to be on you toes. Often the prices are quoted without the VAT (value added tax) that happens to be 20%. This can add a bit to the final bill that was not expected. I also ordered something today and the waiter said that it comes with fried rice, which fried rice did I want? I picked one, only to discover that the rice was actually a separate item that would be added to the bill, not included in the item I ordered. I also had the wrong item brought to me, so I sent it back for what I ordered. Of course it didn't come until everybody else was done with their food. And on the bill the waiter just manually adjusted the total, downward since what I ordered was less, but didn't change the printed receipt. Since we were at 2 tables we had 2 bills. When the second was sent out, the waiter grabbed it and attached the two and totalled them for me. He used the printed total not the adjusted total. I of course caught this, and corrected this. Oh yeah, of course they didn't adjust the VAT amount on the bill which should of been less by 20% of the difference in prices. I left no tip.

I have taken a number of pictures on this holiday we've been on. It'll will take me a while to work my way through them because I got bored a few times and went a little crazy with the camera. But hopefully on a week or so I'll have lots of pictures to peruse. I'll try to only do the best of the best so you don't lose interest. I have a feeling that even I am going to be very bored looking at all the pictures I took.

Well the time is about up and I've learned I better start ending early in these internet cafes as it just cuts you off and you may not be able to save the final draft.

Checking out of Arusha,
Paul