Friday, October 31, 2008

IT’S MY BIRTHDAY!

November 1st…Today is my birthday and I would not want to be anywhere else! As we ride a bus for 3 hours from Kisumu to Homa Bay, it is hot, humid and wonderful. We are the only muzungus on the bus and people ignore us, for the most part, except when they see our “Obama 2008” buttons. That is a great way to start a conversation! Everyone is crazy about Obama and his grandmother is under tight security as everyone wants to visit her…we might try to see her in a few months!

As we drive along the road here is what I see: people walking everywhere and no where, women walking with huge baskets on their heads, little boys or old men herding their goats or cattle along the roadside, children filling up their jerry cans with water at every mud puddle or body of water that they can find, people bathing or washing clothes at rivers and mud holes (how do they get their clothes clean when the water is so muddy?). Naked kids splashing in the water holes, little tiny children standing along the roadside without a parent in sight, 5 year olds with their baby brother on their back, women in beautiful dresses, men in suits, young men in “Race for the Cure” t-shirts, people sitting around with nothing to do, cell phone advertisements…everywhere, little shacks and lean-tos containing small businesses, Lake Victoria in the distance, chickens in a basket of the lady sitting across the aisle from us, Boda Bodas (bicycles with pads on the back) waiting to give rides to anyone who can pay 20 shillings (25 cents), mud huts with tin roofs, goats tied up to bushes, skinny dogs looking for food. Oh, the sights of Africa. I’m not going to go into the smells of Africa right now!

When we arrive in Homa Bay, with sore rear ends after the bumpy last hour of our ride, Dr. John Ott was there with huge hugs to greet us. He had a few of his boys to help with our luggage and then we went to lunch since our chai tea breakfast had us running on empty. The talipia was delicious! I just don’t get very hungry since I am hot all of the time and my hair looks great too!!! We then went to check out a hotel room that we are considering renting for our election morning party (results will begin about 4:00 am).

John is putting the hard press on us to stay in Homa Bay instead of traveling further to Sori. We told him that we need to see what’s going on here to see what we are supposed to be doing (we still don’t know). As we walked up to the hospital, we heard wonderful singing and went in to greet the kids at a technical school. (Morgan is already thinking about being able to teach these kids how to sew). Dr John showed us part of the hospital but we were cut short because Mass was starting at the Catholic Church just up the hill. We went to Mass (we aren’t Catholic, but that is okay) and Dr J asked Nick to play guitar as he played the trumpet. It was great! The kids sang so well and we enjoyed it a lot. Unfortunately, the songs were all in Kiswahili so we couldn’t understand. The sermon was in English though. At the end of Mass, the priest asked Nick to play a song so he played a sing-along that everyone enjoyed. It was quite lively! When we were done with Mass we waited to be picked up by the “sisters” from the local convent. They invited us to stay for a few nights and had food waiting for us when we arrived. Six nuns care for 50 AIDS orphans, 10 of them are sick with HIV/AIDS, but they are being treated and are seeing an improvement. We get to meet the kids in the morning and go back to 9:00 Mass.
Everyone is so friendly and eager to offer us food, lodging and anything else we might need. Life is good!
Love & Kisses from Joyce
PS From Paul -
1) Thanks for the e-mail replies to Joyce, but due to limited time and slloooowww internet we will not be able to reply,
2) I messed up on the last blog related items, so some dup pictures, some items that didn't make it etc. And again slow speed making it hard to correct and improve, but I'll try.

Jambo From Kisumu Kenya!

We’ve made it to our first extended layover – Kisumu, Kenya. Last I wrote, we were in Amsterdam – that seems long ago. We left our home in Beaverton about 2 pm on Monday, Oct 27, made it to our lodging in Kisumu about 9am Thursday Oct 30, local time. You can figure out the elapsed time.

We decided to take the train from Nairobi to Kisumu. That left us about 9 hours to wander after making through immigration. After enduring the smog filled jammed streets of Nairobi to get to the train station for our tickets, we headed to the Elephant Orphanage and Giraffe Center. See some pictures in our travel album; the link should be to the right. The little baby elephants were great to see and pet, mud and all. We were fortunate to be able to do this as the Orphanage is only open one hour per day to visitors. After that is was off to the Giraffe Center to feed and pet the giraffes. Morgan and Nick even got a little friendly with them, kissing them and feed them with the food held in their lips. Yuck, yes, but how many people can say they’ve kissed a giraffe.

The train was great, and the Obama buttons we handed out earned us a couple of perks. One of the best decisions so far of the trip was getting 2 four berth compartment instead of one. It would have been quite cramped with 4 of use and 12+ pieces of luggage in one. The 220 mile trip took about 14 hours by train do to the 20 or so stops and a top speed of maybe 25 miles an hour. But the accommodations in the train were great, and to be able to finally sleep in the prone position after 2 straight nights on planes was blissful indeed.

The sun is definitely a danger to us here. Already both Joyce and Morgan have gotten mild burns. I guess us Oregonians just don’t how to handle real sun.

Pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/MaiersInAfrica

Jambo,
Paul

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

The Adventure Begins


Well, this first day has started; we've made it to our layover in Amsterdam. It's a long one, 8+ hours. Once the first flight from PDX got going, it was pretty uneventful, except for the numerous crying babes, but I got to sleep though a lot of it thanks to the miracle of sleeping pills. The others did well also, all catching at least a little sleep.

Of course, our trip almost ended before it started. At the flight check-in the agent was wondering where our Visas were. We didn't have them, as we planned to acquire them in the Nairobi airport when we landed. They thought that since our trip was so long, they might be needed before we left. It's tough getting to Kenya only to be sent back right away she told us. Great, I'm thinking, how do we handle this one, this one never crossed my radar. But a couple calls to the supervisors got “clarification” on their policy and we got our boarding passes.

And to appease me, we only had about 1-1/2 more hours to wait until boarding. Then it was to the tarmac for another 1-1/2 hour wait as missing passenger’s luggage was removed and mechanical problems got resolved. But, better then the family next to us. They were scheduled to fly the day before, but the flight was cancelled, so they got the fun of dealing with missed connections as well.

But Schiphol airport has been uneventful so far, other then the snow outside!

The adventures begin,
Paul

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Going Numb

The count down is now in hours, not days or weeks. We take off in about 21 hours. Only a couple of small To-Dos left on the pre-flight list.

Many emotions have been pulsing through my body the last 2 months - anxiousness, excitement, panic, wonder, trepidation, worry. And it was never one at at time, usually 3 or 4 were going at one time. Hard to distinguish what ones were hitting some times as they feel so similar, or switched so quickly. Then crunch time hit and it was mostly panic and anxiety trying to get all the last minute items complete (gee I hate that procrastination). Then, this morning at church, I realized I felt nothing, I was numb. I thought back and realized I entered that state the night before, while we were at our going away "ThanksMasNewSterDay" party. It was nice, easy going and didn't require much thought or effort. I haven't determined why I went numb, but it was probably a combination of being tired just shutting down so I could power through all the last minute items I could no longer procrastinate on.

We had a little "commissioning" for our trip at church today. It was nice to have the support and prayer of our church family. Many people came up and wished us well, good luck, safe travel and prayers. One person comment that you've probably heard it all many times already, but I noted it didn't get old, it was nice to hear every time. Many thanks to all those you are giving us their support.

Next one from the road,
Paul

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Packing Days and Other Prep



We are getting down to our last couple of days and the packing and repacking process has begun. The goal is to get each the 8 checked bags as close to 50 pounds each without going over - sort of like The Price is Right. You go over and you pay dearly for it. The living room has become packing central. Joyce is in command and keeps asking when I'll have my stuff ready to be packed. I say "soon". This of course is still optimistic of me at this point, as I'm easily distracted as every time I turn around I see something else I need to do, and head off in a different direction.

Got the cell phones sort of figured out. I'm going to the ATT GoPhone prepaid plan. While the rate is not real good, it does keep my number and I actually can use the phone and the credit I purchased. Had to go the the $100 level to get credit that lasted longer than the trip will. It should serve us well, particularly after we return. This way I'll still have my number when I get back.

Me got a chance to meet with Karen Z a couple days ago - our guest blogger. She just returned from 6 weeks in Kenya and had the stories to tell. While there were many bumps in the road for her, both literally and figuratively, we are even more excited to get on with it. Found out significantly more about where we will stay. Briefly - there is water if they remember to turn it on after filling the water tower tank. But "don't drink the water" applies. The village does not have municipal power, but the children's home fires up a generator for about an hour a day. Internet - what's that?

So it looks like getting to the Internet will probably be less frequently then we would like, so the blog may bot be updated as often as me would have liked. Out backup plan to write the messages in word and quickly upload when we do have connections, them may not be possible as the hour a day of power will not keep the laptops running very long.

We still are not sure how to get from Nairobi, where we fly into to Kisumu, our destination for the first couple of days. Many possibilities, but figuring it out from 9000 miles, 9 hour time difference, marginal or non-existent web sites, and conflicting info is not a cake walk. I'll let you know how it works out.

Time to go work on getting the car ready to pass off during our trip. Then I'll get right on that packing thing...

Over and out,

Paul

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Karen Zwickert - Guest Blogger

Hi All,

Karen is our primary contact for the location we are going in Africa. She has started Africa Band Aid to help support locals of the region of Kenya we are travelling to. The web-site is http://www.africabandaid.com/. Karen has recently returned from a 6 week visit to the area. Here is her e-mail upon her return. I'll let it speak for itself.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Dear Family and Friends,

Sorry to be so tardy in writing, the past six weeks has been a challenge! Email has been unavailable even with many tries, between the distance to email and the electric power or lack of it, it has been impossible.

So let me recap for you....

My journey to Nairobi was uneventful. I had an overnight in London and took advantage of the opportunity to see "Wicked" on London's Broadway. It was excellent! I only fell asleep twice, hopefully for a brief time. I had a light supper and it cost $40; I was happy to be there for such a short time.

I arrived in Nairobi after a seven hour delay in London. I arrived just two hours before my volunteer. Just enough time to check in to the Stanley Hotel, drop off those five 50# bags, take a shower and head back to the airport.

Laura arrived without delays. We took a nap then saw some of Nairobi: Nairobi National Park, where there was every kind of animal, except the elephant, The Karen Blixen House (Out of Africa), and the Giraffe Center.

The following morning Dr John sent some helpers to cart luggage and escort us to Sori. I called to let them know I was in country; were they surprised! We arrived very late at night to a warm welcome from the staff and Board of Trustees.

On Sunday I walked to the hospital and met the Director; he was stunned! Oh for a camera to capture the picture of his face.

Laura, our OHSU prenursing student, is delightful! We arranged an experience that included hospital care, surgery observation, public health nursing, a mobile clinic, and a day with HIV+ children. She also spent much time with the children at the Living Center. Laura is an exceptional young woman - resilient, curious, and flexible.

The Children's Home is amazing! What a treat to see it completed and in operation. We are one step away from being registered. The children are loving it. They are fun and lively. They were delighted with the Crocs, toothbrushes, underwear, school supplies, and soap. Such basic items delight them and give them much pleasure.

My house is lovely, although not furnished with anything but a bed, a mosquito net, and a plastic chair. The best part is the veranda that faces Lake Victoria and the sunsets are beautiful. There is an added bonus that is right in front of the male bathing beach. I assure you I try hard to keep my eyes above the horizon!

I have seen little visual effect form the post election violence. The economy is failing and most food items have doubled in price, gas is @ $8/gallon. There is more of a strain on the rural communities.

The Krieger report, an investigation of the election, was presented to Kofi Anin. A diplomatic path was has been chosen to dissuade the population from political results and instead embrace the existing power sharing agreement, the Grand Coalition, based on the maintenance of national unity. It declared no winner and blamed the election as flawed.There has been no violent reaction to date.

The hospital now has a full time paid physician, six registered nurses, a surgical theatre, NHIF (National Health Insurance) and many patients. Dr John did a great job of bringing it back to life. The Victory Garden is in process with a fair harvest the first time and more success this time. The Poultry Project needs some assistance. I was told there were 89 chickens, but I did not see them when I was there. I have seen and visited Dr John at his new location in Homa Bay. Saint Paul's is about 60 km from Sori. He is there to breathe new life into it. It is more modern than Sori, @ 40 beds. They are building a new wing for surgical services. John is the administrator and medical officer. He is well and happy there.

I have enjoyed connecting with my friends here in Kenya, particularly Leah, Bob and their children.

The conflict at the Living Center is more than I expected. The hospital director thinks it is time for him to "take over" the home, remove the current staff, and replace with his friends. and yes, Africa Band Aid can continue to support it every month! There was a meeting with the CBO (Community Based Organization) network. I brought my Board of Trustees and my manager, Bob Okeyo. There was no order, no chair, in fact I was called a liar, and left the meeting. Chaos broke out at that point.

We have tried to negotiate with the assistance of the Children's Services Officer and the Director was "too busy" to attend. I am still unaware of what the real problem is. So there have been many administrative moves to solidify our position. Fortunately the community is behind us!

There was an official Grand Opening and the community leaders were there and it was a wonderful celebration.

There have been a number of threats as well as the beating of one of the Board members, as well as a break in into my house. We have involved the local authorities, but some are in collusion with the Director. The most recent threat was an aborted abduction. Last Wednesday I was at the home and three men from the Kenya Department of Immigration arrived and requested my passport. They confiscated it and said that I needed to go with them to Isabania on the Kenya Tanzania border to talk to the Director of Immigrations. I was petrified! I was not sure they were legitimate. In fact I had the presence of mind to ask for ID and wrote all the information down, as well as the license plate number of the vehicle. I stalled and made some phone calls and was told that I would be arrested if I did not go with them. I have never been so frightened in my life! I called the Assistant Chief who brought the chief. I finally agreed to go if someone went with me. So I stalled some more and prepared to leave with the housemother and a Board member. Finally the Chief negotiated and I was able to go to Nairobi unescorted. I was so relieved!

I quickly packed up my things and went to a safe place. Once I thought of what might have happened, I was angry. The intention was to scare me away. So I did not leave. I stayed the next day, walked about town, visited the school, and attended a Board meeting.

I left the following day with a bodyguard, my manager, Bob, for Nairobi. Dr John joined us there. We have been to Immigrations and told that the hospital director made a complaint that I was working for money without a work Visa; which of course is not true. If that were the case the immigration officers would have been there to investigate the situation, not arrest me or confiscate my passport. Clearly it was an abduction to scare me away. Dr John thinks the plan was to take me to the Kenya Tanzania border, and leave me there without a passport, money or phone. I must admit my thought were even worse than that.

So I have made a formal complaint with the Department of Immigration and seen the US Embassy. I am demanding that those responsible are held accountable and I am requesting a public apology.

It is unfortunate that a few people who are greedy and corrupt can have such an impact. The needs here are so great, the vulnerable children are many.

I am happy to be heading home on Wednesday. But I regret that my staff and the children remain at risk from such behavior.

Please keep them in your thoughts and prayers. Please share this with anyone that might be interested. This new MSN program makes it difficult to send a long distribution list.

Much love, Karen

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

The To-Do Lists Continue

I have my to-do lists made, and checking things off, but the list does not seem to get much shorter. As one item is complete, it seems to trigger something else that needs to be done, or I an item I earlier overlooked. And most of the items take way longer than they look on paper - of course Joyce would say, your estimates are always way, way to low.

But some major items out of the way, such as all the doctor's appointments. Joyce and I had 'His and Hers' ones today, I'll leave it at that. All the major house upkeep items have been completed, of course most of those were suppose to be done months, if not years, ago.

Still having a couple days of work to do. One will be completed tomorrow. The other, just a couple day's before we leave. Not a great hindrance, but some some clean-up stuff to do once that's all done.

I'm into my pre-trip irritable mode. This happens frequently before major trips, and this being more major than others, it has hit a little worse and sooner. My family knows it happens and don't look forward to it, but know how to minimize it some ("daddy's in one of his modes, stay away from him"). I see it in myself now, and can counteract it a little bit.

Our friend, Karen Zwickert, who has done major work in the location we are going, is due back in a day or so from it. Very anxious to see her and hear her stories and what new knowledge and arrangements she has for us.

Take care,
Paul

Monday, October 6, 2008

I Miss My Bed

We haven't left yet, but already I'm missing some of the 'luxuries' that I now have. While I don't know for sure what we will have, I have some impressions based on our other 2 trips to Kenya. During those visits, we spent less than a week in the rural areas by the schools we help by sponsoring kids fees. This time it's days shy of 6 months.

One item that I'm surprised I'm missing already is my queen size, pillow top bed. Lately as I'm getting ready for bed, worn out from the day's activities and thinking of the trip todo list, I look at my bed and say 'oh I like to sleep in the comfortable bed I have.' Then I think about our last trip and our first night by the schools. Joyce and I walk into the bedroom. We see a double size bed set up for use. We think, that's not bad, it's smaller, but very doable. Later, as we crawl into bed, in some state of jet-lag, excitement, exhaustion, I discover the double bed is holding a single mattress that was well camouflaged by the bedspread. Now I'm thinking, not-doable. But a few minutes later, having stuffed the gap between the mattress and bed frame with a few of our softer belongings and bags, we are off to a fitful night of slumber-land.

There are several other items that I'm already missing. Not the extras in life, like the HD TV, the cell phone, the 2 cars or the Diet Dr. Pepper, but the basics. A shower (with warm water or not), a toilet inside my house (whether it flushes or not), running water I can drink from the tap (inside my house or not).

Time to go pick up Joyce at the airport. She just spent a week helping a dear friend that just had open heart surgery. I was scheduled for this trip to, but backed out, knowing I'd over anxious not being home 'getting thing done' for our trip. Man oh man, the airlines, their fares and specials and how they handle changes are not consumer friendly. You'd think that offering the airline a spare seat they could sell, they'd let you only send one person on a flight instead of the original two. But I'm getting worked up again on water that is long past the bridge.

So long for now,
Paul